The featured stitch pattern has a 4-stitch repeat. So, 15 repeats equals 60 stitches total. I do love slip stitch patterns, and I’m using two here: one in the cuff (“Double Mock Ribbing” from the Harmony Guide to Knitting Stitches and one for the leg/instep ("Slipped Rib I" from the same book).
For these particular slip stitch patterns, you do not need to move the yarn for the stitches that are slipped. If the yarn is in front and the next stitch is slipped, just leave the yarn in front when slipping. If the yarn is in back and the next stitch is slipped, just leave the yarn in back when slipping.
The yarn I used was a birthday gift from a friend. It’s Socks That Rock yarn (lightweight) in “Cables of Wrath” colorway, in a skein of 5.5 ounces and approximately 405 yards. I used one skein. This yarn is 100% superwash Merino wool. I got my gauge (7 ½ sts per inch) using US size 2 (2.75 mm) needles in both slip stitch patterns. Since much of the foot is in stockinette stitch, I switched to US size 1 (2.25mm) needles for the foot. I got a gauge of 7 ½ stitches per inch and 21 rounds per inch in stockinette on US size 1.
Loosely CO 60 sts. I used a long tail cast on, with US size 4 (3.5 mm), then changed to US size 2 (2.75mm) for the leg of the sock. I used a set of 4 double pointed needles and distributed the stitches so that there were 20 sts on Needle 1, 20 sts on Needle 2, and 20 sts on Needle 3.
Round 1: knit.
Round 2: purl.
Round 3: knit.
Round 4: purl.
Round 5: *k2, p2; rep from * around.
Round 6: *sl2 wyif, p2; rep from * around.
Repeat Rounds 5 and 6 until cuff measures 2”.
Knit 1 round. Then start the “slipped rib I” pattern:
Rounds 1 and 2: *k1, sl1, k2; rep from * around.
Rounds 3 and 4: *k3, sl1; rep from * around.
Work these 4 rounds until sock measures ~6 ¼ inches, end having finished a Round 4.
Knit the first 15 stitches on Needle 1. Place the next 30 sts onto 2 needles. Slip the last 15 stitches from Needle 3 onto Needle 1. The heel flap is worked flat on the 30 sts on Needle 1. The 30 sts on the other two needles constitute the instep.
Row 1 (WS): sl1, purl to end.
Row 2: *s1, k1; rep from * to end.
Repeat Rows 1 & 2 until heel flap is approximately 2 inches long, end having finished a Row 1.
The turned heel is made up of “short rows” with decreases. This process shapes the heel. As a result, for each row you will work a different number of stitches, and you will end up with fewer total stitches than you started with.
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k16, ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 2: sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 3: sl1, k to 1 st before “gap”, ssk, K1, turn work.
Row 4: sl1, p to 1 st before “gap”, p2tog, P1, turn work.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 18 sts remain, having finished a row 4.
Next row: sl1, knit across.
Here is where I switched to US size 1 (2.25mm) needles.
Pick up and knit 16 sts along the right side of the heel flap. To do this, insert right needle under the first edge stitch (under both strands of the stitch), wrap the working yarn around the needle, and pull a stitch through (one stitch has now been picked up and knitted). Repeat this process until 16 stitches have been picked up.
Slip the following 30 sts onto one needle. These stitches constitute the instep of the sock. Work these 30 sts following Round 1 of the instep pattern (see below).
Pick up and knit 16 sts along the left side of the heel flap.
Onto this same needle, knit the next 9 stitches (from the remaining heel stitches). Slip the remaining 9 heel stitches onto Needle 1 (with the right side gusset).
You now have 25 sts on Needle 1, 30 sts on Needle 2, and 25 sts on Needle 3. The middle of the heel falls between Needle 3 and Needle 1. Consider this point to be the beginning of the round.
Round 1: On Needle 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, work Round 2 of instep pattern. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.
Round 2: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, continue working instep pattern as established. On Needle 3, knit.
Rep Rounds 1 & 2 until there are 15 sts on both Needles 1 and 3 (60 sts total).
Instep Stitch Pattern (worked on Needle 2):
I used stitch markers to help keep track (thus the “place marker” that is in Round 1).
Round 1: k1; place marker, (k1, sl1, k2) 7 times, place marker; k1.
Round 2: same as Round 1 (except for the “place marker” bit).
Rounds 3 & 4: k1; (k3, sl1) 7 times; k1
Rounds 5 – 8: same as Rounds 1 – 4.
Rounds 9 – 12: k1; p28; k1.
After completing all the gusset decreases, continue working even, and continue repeating the instep pattern for as long as you want. I worked five repeats of the pattern. Then I continued in st st.
The toe is 28 Rounds total.
This toe is shaped so that it gradually narrows. To achieve this effect, you will work a “Decrease Round” more frequently as the toe progresses.
Perform a Decrease Round on Rounds 1, 6, 10, 13, 16, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, and 28. On all other rounds, work even.
Decrease Round: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.
At this point, there will be 4 sts on Needle 1, 8 sts on Needle 2, and 4 sts on Needle 3. Now, knit the next 4 sts onto Needle 3, leaving 8 sts on Needle 2 and 8 sts on Needle 3.
Graft the toe using the Kitchener stitch:
Cut the working yarn, leaving a 20 inch or longer tail. Thread this tail through a darning needle. Orient the sock so that the 2 needles are horizontal, the instep side of the sock is facing you, and the working yarn is coming off the right side of the needle in the back.
Step 1: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.
Step 2: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.
Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all stitches have been worked and slipped off the needles.
Weave in all ends.
If you have any questions – or if you find any mistakes – you can either leave a comment on this blog page or email me: email@example.com or firstname.lastname@example.org
This pattern is free, but it is still copyrighted. So, feel free share a copy of this pattern or knit these socks, but please do not sell the pattern or sell socks made from this pattern. Thank you.