20 X 3 = 60

Here’s the first of twelve sock patterns in my journey of 60 stitches. The featured stitch pattern is a 20-stitch repeat. So, 3 repeats equals 60 stitches total. I’m using a knit-purl stitch pattern that I have used before for some socks for my friend Sylvia VM . The cuff includes a picot hem and some eyelet rows. The 20-stitch pattern is used on the leg and on the instep of the foot.

The stitch pattern is from the Harmony Guide to Practical Knitting Stitches (1983, Collins & Brown, London): pattern I.21. It’s a charming curved welt pattern.

I’ve used a yarn made by Pagewood Farm called “St. Elias” in a colorway called “Peaceful”. It’s 80% Bluefaced Leicester wool and 20% nylon. The colors in this yarn complement the curved welts of the stitch pattern to create a watery, wavy effect. I got my gauge (7 ½ sts per in, 11 rounds per in) using US size 1 (2.25mm) needles in stockinette stitch.

Cuff:

Loosely CO 60 sts. I used a knit cast on. I used a set of 4 double pointed needles and distributed the stitches so that there were 20 sts on each of three needles.

Rounds 1-5: knit

Round 6: *p2tog, yo; rep from * around.
Rounds 7-13: knit
Rounds 14 & 20: purl
Rounds 15 & 21: *k2tog, yo; rep from * around.
Rounds 16 & 22: purl
Rounds 17-19: knit
Rounds 23-24: knit

Leg:

Here is where the welt pattern begins.

Round 1: *k5, p9, k6; rep from * around.

Round 2: *k4, p11, k5; rep from * around.
Round 3: *k3, p13, k4; rep from * around.
Round 4: *k2, p4, k7, p4, k3; rep from * around.
Round 5: *k2, p3, k9, p3, k3; rep from * around.
Round 6: *k2, p2, p11, p2, k3; rep from * around.
Round 7: *k2, p1, k13, p1, k3; rep from * around.
Round 8: *p3, k13, p4; rep from * around.
Round 9: *p4, k11, p5; rep from * around.
Round 10: *p5, k9, p6; rep from * around.
Round 11: *k2, p4, k7, p4, k3; rep from * around.
Round 12: *k3, p3, k7, p3, k4; rep from * around.
Round 13: *k4, p2, p7, p2, k5; rep from * around.
Round 14: *k5, p1, k7, p1, k6; rep from * around.

Work these 14 rounds a total of 4 times.

Heel Flap:

The heel flap and heel turn are worked flat.

K14. Then rearrange the next 31 sts onto 2 needles. These 31 sts comprise the instep of the foot. Slip the last 15 sts onto the first needle (the needle with the 14 k sts). These 29 sts comprise the heel flap.

Row 1 (WS): sl1, p to end.

Row 2: *sl1, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Rep rows 1 & 2 until heel flap is approx. 2” long, end having finished a Row 1, ready to start a RS row.

Heel Turn:

The turned heel is made up of “short rows” with decreases. This process shapes the heel. As a result, for each row you will work a different number of stitches, and you will end up with fewer total stitches than when you started.

Row 1 (RS): sl1, k15, ssk, k1, turn work.

Row 2: sl1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 3: sl1, k to 1 st before “gap”, ssk, K1, turn work.
Row 4: sl1, p to 1 st before “gap”, p2tog, P1, turn work.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 17 sts remain, having finished a row 4.

Next row: sl1, knit across.

Gusset:

Pick up and knit 18 sts along the right side of the heel flap. To do this, insert right needle under the first edge stitch (under both strands of the stitch), wrap the working yarn around the needle, and pull a stitch through (one stitch has now been picked up and knitted). Repeat this process until 18 stitches have been picked up.

Slip the following 31 sts onto one needle. These stitches constitute the instep of the sock. Work these 31 sts following the instep pattern (see below).

Pick up and knit 18 sts along the left side of the heel flap.

Onto this same needle, knit the next 8 stitches (from the remaining heel stitches). Slip the remaining 9 heel stitches onto Needle 1 (with the right side gusset).

You now have 27 sts on Needle 1, 31 sts on Needle 2, and 26 sts on Needle 3. The middle of the heel falls between Needle 3 and Needle 1. Consider this point to be the beginning of the round.

Round 1: On Needle 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, work Round 2 of instep pattern. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

Round 2: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, cont working instep pattern as established. On Needle 3, knit.

Rep Rounds 1 & 2 until there are 15 sts on Needle 1 and 14 sts on Needle 3 (60 sts total).

Instep Stitch Pattern (worked on Needle 2):

Round 1: k11, p9, k11

Round 2: k10, p11, k10
Round 3: k1, p1, k7, p13, k7, p1, k1
Round 4: k1, p2, k5, p4, k7, p4, k5, p2, k1
Round 5: k1, p2, k5, p3, k9, p3, k5, p2, k1
Round 6: k1, p2, k5, p2, k11, p2, k5, p2, k1
Round 7: k2, p1, k5, p1, k13, p1, k5, p1, k2
Round 8: k2, p7, k13, p7, k2
Round 9: k1, p9, k11, p9, k1
Round 10: k1, p10, k9, p10, k1
Round 11: k1, p2, k5, p4, k7, p4, k5, p2, k1
Round 12: k1, p1, k7, p3, k7, p3, k7, p1, k1
Round 13: k10, p2, k7, p2, k10
Round 14: k11, p1, k7, p1, k11

Foot:

After completing all the gusset decreases, cont working even, and cont repeating the instep pattern for as long as you want. I worked a total of 4 ½ repeats of the instep pattern, ending having finished a Round 7. I would suggest stopping the instep pattern either there or on a Round 14.

Work even until foot measures 2 ½ in shorter than desired foot length.

Toe:

The toe is 28 Rounds total.

Because there is a different number of sts for instep and sole of the foot, Round 1 of the toe contains 2 decreases as follows:

Round 1: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, knit.

This toe is then shaped so that it gradually narrows. To achieve this effect, you will work a “Decrease Round” more frequently as the toe progresses.

Perform a Decrease Round on Rounds 5, 9, 12, 15, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 27, and 28. On all other rounds (except Round 1 as described above), work even.

Decrease Round: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

At this point, there will be 4 sts on Needle 1, 7 sts on Needle 2, and 3 sts on Needle 3. Now, knit the next 3 sts onto Needle 3, leaving 7 sts on Needle 2 and 7 sts on Needle 3.

Graft the toe using the Kitchener stitch:

Cut the working yarn, leaving a 20 inch or longer tail. Thread this tail through a darning needle. Orient the sock so that the 2 needles are horizontal, the instep side of the sock is facing you, and the working yarn is coming off the right side of the needle in the back.

Step 1: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Step 2: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Instert darning needle into the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all stitches have been worked and slipped off the needles.

Finishing:

At the top of the cuff, fold the first 5 rounds to the inside of the cuff along the picot edge. Sew the cast on edge to the inside of the cuff.

Weave in all ends.

If you have any questions – or if you find any mistakes – you can either leave a comment on this blog page or email me: atyler@centurytel.net or amy@stonesockfibers.com

This pattern is free, but it is still copyrighted. So, please feel free share a copy of this pattern or knit these socks, but please do not sell the pattern or sell socks made from this pattern. Thank you.