I mirrored the
pattern to change it from a 6-stitch repeat to a 12-stitch repeat.
I used a yarn from
my stash that I have learned is now discontinued: Great American Yarns “Soft
Sea Wool”. Too bad it’s discontinued, because it is a pleasure to knit. I’m
glad I recently bought a lot of it discounted at the nearby Lost Art Yarn Shoppe.
This yarn is
100% wool, and comes in skeins of 50 grams, approximately 162 yards per skein.
I used 2 skeins. (I wear a size 6 ½ shoe, so if your feet are larger, you might
need more yardage.) I used color 0754, a dusty yellow that really shows off the
stitch pattern. I got my gauge (7 ½ sts per inch, 11 rounds per inch) using US
size 2 (2.75mm) needles in stockinette stitch.
Cuff:
Loosely CO 60
sts. I used a long tail cast on, and US size 4 (3.5mm) for the cast on, then
changed to US size 2 (2.75mm) for the sock. I used a set of 4 double pointed
needles and distributed the stitches so that there were 18 sts on Needle 1, 18
sts on Needle 2, and 24 sts on Needle 3.
Round 1: *k3,
p3; rep from * around.
Repeat Round 1
for approximately 1 ½ inches (18 rounds).
Leg:
See the
previous blog post for notes about RT and LT.
Round 1: knit.
Round 2: *k4,
p2, k3, p2, k1; rep from * around.Round 3: *k3, LT, k5, RT; rep from * around.
Round 4: *k3, p1, k1, p1; rep from * around.
Round 5: *k4, LT, k3, RT, k1; rep from * around.
Round 6: *k3, p2, k5, p2; rep from * around.
Round 7: knit.
Round 8: same as Round 6.
Round 9: *k4, RT, k3, LT, k1; rep from * around.
Round 10: same as Round 4.
Round 11: *k3, RT, k5, LT; rep from * around.
Round 12: same as Round 2.
Work these 12 rounds
until sock measures ~6 ½ inches, end having finished a Round 6.
ON THE LAST
ROUND OF LEG: work to the last stitch; do not work the last stitch but rather
slip it from the end of Needle 3 to the beginning of Needle 1.
Heel Flap:
Redistribute
the stitches as follows: 29 sts on Needle 1, 16 sts on Needle 2, and 15 sts on
Needle 3.
The heel flap
is worked flat on the 29 sts on Needle 1. The 31 sts on the other 2 needles
constitute the instep. The twisted stitch pattern is continued on the heel
flap.
Row 1 (RS): sl1,
knit to end.
Row 2: (WS):
sl1, (p3, k2, p5, k2) twice, p4.Row 3: sl1, (k4, RT, k3, LT, k1) twice, k4.
Row 4: sl1, (p3, k1, p1, k1) four times, p4.
Row 5: sl1, (k3, RT, k5, LT) twice, k4.
Row 6: sl1, (p4, k2, p3, k2, p1) twice, p4.
Row 7: sl1, knit to end.
Row 8: same as Row 6.
Row 9: sl1, (k3, LT, k5, RT) twice, k4.
Row 10: same as Row 4.
Row 11: sl1, (k4, LT, K3, RT, k1) twice, k4.
Row 12: same as Row 2.
Rep Rows 1-12
once more (work 2 times total)
Row 13: sl1,
knit to end.
Row 14: sl1, purl
to end.
Heel flap
should be approximately 2 inches long. If necessary, rep Rows 13-14 to get
desired length of heel flap.
Heel Turn:
The turned heel is made up of “short rows” with decreases. This process
shapes the heel. As a result, for each row you will work a different number of
stitches, and you will end up with fewer total stitches than when you started.
Row 1 (RS):
sl1, k15, ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 2: sl1, p4,
p2tog, p1, turn work.Row 3: sl1, k to 1 st before “gap”, ssk, K1, turn work.
Row 4: sl1, p to 1 st before “gap”, p2tog, P1, turn work.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 17 sts remain, having finished a row 4.
Next row: sl1, knit across.
Gusset:
Pick up and knit 14 sts along the right side of the heel flap. To do
this, insert right needle under the first edge stitch (under both strands of
the stitch), wrap the working yarn around the needle, and pull a stitch through
(one stitch has now been picked up and knitted). Repeat this process until 14
stitches have been picked up.
Slip the following 31 sts onto one needle. These stitches constitute the
instep of the sock. Work these 31 sts following Round 1 of the instep pattern
(see below).
Pick up and knit 14 sts along the left side of the heel flap.
Onto this same needle, knit the next 8 stitches (from the remaining heel
stitches). Slip the remaining 9 heel stitches onto Needle 1 (with the right
side gusset).
You now have 23 sts on Needle 1, 31 sts on Needle 2, and 22 sts on Needle
3. The middle of the heel falls between Needle 3 and Needle 1. Consider this
point to be the beginning of the round.
Round 1: On Needle 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, work
Round 2 of instep pattern. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.
Round 2: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, cont working instep pattern as established. On Needle 3, knit.
Rep Rounds 1 & 2 until there are 15 sts on Needle 1 and 14 sts on
Needle 3 (60 sts total).
Instep
Stitch Pattern (worked on Needle 2):
Round 1: knit.Round 2: k5, (k1, p2, k3, p2, k4) twice, k2.
Round 3: k5, (LT, k5, RT, k3) twice, k2.
Round 4: K5, (p1, k1, p1, k3) four times, k2.
Round 5: k5, (k1, LT, k3, RT, k4) twice, k2.
Round 6: k5, (p2, k5, p2, k3) twice, k2.
Round 7: knit.
Round 8: same as Round 6.
Round 9: k5, (k1, RT, k3, LT, k4) twice, k2.
Round 10: same as Round 4.
Round 11: k5, (RT, k5, LT, k3) twice, k2.
Round 12: same as Round 2.
Foot:
After completing all the gusset decreases, cont working even, and cont
repeating the instep pattern for as long as you want. I worked a total of 4 ½
repeats of the instep pattern, then I worked Rounds 7-12 once more on just the
center 9 sts of the instep.
Work even in st st until foot measures 2 ½ in shorter than desired foot
length.
Toe:
The toe is 28
Rounds total.
Because there
is a different number of sts for instep and sole of the foot, Round 1 of the
toe contains 2 decreases as follows:
Round 1: On
Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3,
knit.
This toe is then
shaped so that it gradually narrows. To achieve this effect, you will work a
“Decrease Round” more frequently as the toe progresses.
Perform a
Decrease Round on Rounds 5, 9, 12, 15, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 27, and 28. On all
other rounds (except Round 1 as described above), work even.
Decrease
Round: On Needle 1,
knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog,
k1. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.
At this point,
there will be 4 sts on Needle 1, 7 sts on Needle 2, and 3 sts on Needle 3. Now,
knit the next 4 sts onto Needle 3, leaving 7 sts on Needle 2 and 7 sts on
Needle 3.
Graft the toe using the Kitchener
stitch:
Cut
the working yarn, leaving a 20 inch or longer tail. Thread this tail through a
darning needle. Orient the sock so that the 2 needles are horizontal, the
instep side of the sock is facing you, and the working yarn is coming off the
right side of the needle in the back.
Step 1: Insert darning
needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through
and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch
on the front needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch
on the needle.
Step 2: Insert darning
needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn
through and slip this stitch off the needle. Instert darning needle into the
next stitch on the back needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and leave
this stitch on the needle.
Repeat Steps 1
and 2 until all stitches have been worked and slipped off the needles.
Weave in all
ends.
If you have any
questions – or if you find any mistakes – you can either leave a comment on
this blog page or email me: atyler@centurytel.net
or amy@stonesockfibers.com
This pattern is
free, but it is still copyrighted. So, please feel free share a copy of this
pattern or knit these socks, but please do not sell the pattern or sell socks
made from this pattern. Thank you.
;) My first reaction to you turning 60 and doing this was, wow she is old, then I realized OMG I am nearly 59, where did all the time go??? ;) Cool idea about the socks, happy 60th birthday, and we are Not old! ;)
ReplyDeleteIndeed, we are not. I just keep thinking I should be way smarter after 60 years. Thanks!
DeleteAmy, it sounds as though this yarn might be in the DK?Sport weight? Not quite worsted and not quite fingering?
ReplyDeleteYou are correct! More DK than sport, I think.
ReplyDelete