Friday, March 11, 2016

12 X 5 = 60

Here is the second of twelve sock patterns in my journey of 60 stitches. The featured stitch pattern is a 12-stitch repeat. So, 5 repeats equals 60 stitches total. I’ve modified a twist stitch pattern – “Little Wave” – from A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns by Barbara G. Walker.

I mirrored the pattern to change it from a 6-stitch repeat to a 12-stitch repeat.

I used a yarn from my stash that I have learned is now discontinued: Great American Yarns “Soft Sea Wool”. Too bad it’s discontinued, because it is a pleasure to knit. I’m glad I recently bought a lot of it discounted at the nearby Lost Art Yarn Shoppe.

This yarn is 100% wool, and comes in skeins of 50 grams, approximately 162 yards per skein. I used 2 skeins. (I wear a size 6 ½ shoe, so if your feet are larger, you might need more yardage.) I used color 0754, a dusty yellow that really shows off the stitch pattern. I got my gauge (7 ½ sts per inch, 11 rounds per inch) using US size 2 (2.75mm) needles in stockinette stitch.
Cuff:
Loosely CO 60 sts. I used a long tail cast on, and US size 4 (3.5mm) for the cast on, then changed to US size 2 (2.75mm) for the sock. I used a set of 4 double pointed needles and distributed the stitches so that there were 18 sts on Needle 1, 18 sts on Needle 2, and 24 sts on Needle 3.

Round 1: *k3, p3; rep from * around.

Repeat Round 1 for approximately 1 ½ inches (18 rounds).

Leg:
See the previous blog post for notes about RT and LT.

Round 1: knit.
Round 2: *k4, p2, k3, p2, k1; rep from * around.
Round 3: *k3, LT, k5, RT; rep from * around.
Round 4: *k3, p1, k1, p1; rep from * around.
Round 5: *k4, LT, k3, RT, k1; rep from * around.
Round 6: *k3, p2, k5, p2; rep from * around.
Round 7: knit.
Round 8: same as Round 6.
Round 9: *k4, RT, k3, LT, k1; rep from * around.
Round 10: same as Round 4.
Round 11: *k3, RT, k5, LT; rep from * around.
Round 12: same as Round 2.

Work these 12 rounds until sock measures ~6 ½ inches, end having finished a Round 6.

ON THE LAST ROUND OF LEG: work to the last stitch; do not work the last stitch but rather slip it from the end of Needle 3 to the beginning of Needle 1.

Heel Flap:
Redistribute the stitches as follows: 29 sts on Needle 1, 16 sts on Needle 2, and 15 sts on Needle 3.

The heel flap is worked flat on the 29 sts on Needle 1. The 31 sts on the other 2 needles constitute the instep. The twisted stitch pattern is continued on the heel flap.

Row 1 (RS): sl1, knit to end.
Row 2: (WS): sl1, (p3, k2, p5, k2) twice, p4.
Row 3: sl1, (k4, RT, k3, LT, k1) twice, k4.
Row 4: sl1, (p3, k1, p1, k1) four times, p4.
Row 5: sl1, (k3, RT, k5, LT) twice, k4.
Row 6: sl1, (p4, k2, p3, k2, p1) twice, p4.
Row 7: sl1, knit to end.
Row 8: same as Row 6.
Row 9: sl1, (k3, LT, k5, RT) twice, k4.
Row 10: same as Row 4.
Row 11: sl1, (k4, LT, K3, RT, k1) twice, k4.
Row 12: same as Row 2.

Rep Rows 1-12 once more (work 2 times total)

Row 13: sl1, knit to end.
Row 14: sl1, purl to end.

Heel flap should be approximately 2 inches long. If necessary, rep Rows 13-14 to get desired length of heel flap.

Heel Turn:
The turned heel is made up of “short rows” with decreases. This process shapes the heel. As a result, for each row you will work a different number of stitches, and you will end up with fewer total stitches than when you started.

Row 1 (RS): sl1, k15, ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 2: sl1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 3: sl1, k to 1 st before “gap”, ssk, K1, turn work.
Row 4: sl1, p to 1 st before “gap”, p2tog, P1, turn work.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 17 sts remain, having finished a row 4.

Next row: sl1, knit across.

Gusset:
Pick up and knit 14 sts along the right side of the heel flap. To do this, insert right needle under the first edge stitch (under both strands of the stitch), wrap the working yarn around the needle, and pull a stitch through (one stitch has now been picked up and knitted). Repeat this process until 14 stitches have been picked up.

Slip the following 31 sts onto one needle. These stitches constitute the instep of the sock. Work these 31 sts following Round 1 of the instep pattern (see below).

Pick up and knit 14 sts along the left side of the heel flap.

Onto this same needle, knit the next 8 stitches (from the remaining heel stitches). Slip the remaining 9 heel stitches onto Needle 1 (with the right side gusset).

You now have 23 sts on Needle 1, 31 sts on Needle 2, and 22 sts on Needle 3. The middle of the heel falls between Needle 3 and Needle 1. Consider this point to be the beginning of the round.

Round 1: On Needle 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, work Round 2 of instep pattern. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

Round 2: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, cont working instep pattern as established. On Needle 3, knit.

Rep Rounds 1 & 2 until there are 15 sts on Needle 1 and 14 sts on Needle 3 (60 sts total).

Instep Stitch Pattern (worked on Needle 2):
Round 1: knit.
Round 2: k5, (k1, p2, k3, p2, k4) twice, k2.
Round 3: k5, (LT, k5, RT, k3) twice, k2.
Round 4: K5, (p1, k1, p1, k3) four times, k2.
Round 5: k5, (k1, LT, k3, RT, k4) twice, k2.
Round 6: k5, (p2, k5, p2, k3) twice, k2.
Round 7: knit.
Round 8: same as Round 6.
Round 9: k5, (k1, RT, k3, LT, k4) twice, k2.
Round 10: same as Round 4.
Round 11: k5, (RT, k5, LT, k3) twice, k2.
Round 12: same as Round 2.

Foot:
After completing all the gusset decreases, cont working even, and cont repeating the instep pattern for as long as you want. I worked a total of 4 ½ repeats of the instep pattern, then I worked Rounds 7-12 once more on just the center 9 sts of the instep.

Work even in st st until foot measures 2 ½ in shorter than desired foot length.

Toe:
The toe is 28 Rounds total.

Because there is a different number of sts for instep and sole of the foot, Round 1 of the toe contains 2 decreases as follows:

Round 1: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, knit.

This toe is then shaped so that it gradually narrows. To achieve this effect, you will work a “Decrease Round” more frequently as the toe progresses.

Perform a Decrease Round on Rounds 5, 9, 12, 15, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 27, and 28. On all other rounds (except Round 1 as described above), work even.

Decrease Round: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

At this point, there will be 4 sts on Needle 1, 7 sts on Needle 2, and 3 sts on Needle 3. Now, knit the next 4 sts onto Needle 3, leaving 7 sts on Needle 2 and 7 sts on Needle 3.

Graft the toe using the Kitchener stitch:
Cut the working yarn, leaving a 20 inch or longer tail. Thread this tail through a darning needle. Orient the sock so that the 2 needles are horizontal, the instep side of the sock is facing you, and the working yarn is coming off the right side of the needle in the back.

Step 1: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Step 2: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Instert darning needle into the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all stitches have been worked and slipped off the needles.

Weave in all ends.

If you have any questions – or if you find any mistakes – you can either leave a comment on this blog page or email me: atyler@centurytel.net or amy@stonesockfibers.com

This pattern is free, but it is still copyrighted. So, please feel free share a copy of this pattern or knit these socks, but please do not sell the pattern or sell socks made from this pattern. Thank you.

4 comments:

  1. ;) My first reaction to you turning 60 and doing this was, wow she is old, then I realized OMG I am nearly 59, where did all the time go??? ;) Cool idea about the socks, happy 60th birthday, and we are Not old! ;)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Indeed, we are not. I just keep thinking I should be way smarter after 60 years. Thanks!

      Delete
  2. Amy, it sounds as though this yarn might be in the DK?Sport weight? Not quite worsted and not quite fingering?

    ReplyDelete
  3. You are correct! More DK than sport, I think.

    ReplyDelete