Thursday, April 7, 2016

5 x 12 = 60

Here is the third of twelve sock patterns in my journey of 60 stitches. The featured stitch pattern has a 5-stitch repeat. So, 12 repeats equals 60 stitches total. I’m using a simple lace pattern from Susanna Lewis’s book, Knitting Lace. It’s pattern #41. This book is true gem. It was originally published by Tauton Press, but is currently available through Schoolhouse Press.


The yarn I used was a gift from one of the students who took my workshop at last year’s Panoply 2015, Ontario Handweavers and Spinners Biennial Conference.  It’s a Plymouth Yarn, “Happy Feet”, which comes in 50 g skeins, approximately 192 yards per skein. I used two skeins of color # 6. This yarn is 90% superwash Merino wool and 10% nylon. I got my gauge (7 ½ sts per inch, 11 rounds per inch) using US size 1 (2.25 mm) needles in the lace pattern (as described in the Leg section below).

When I was first given this yarn, I liked the colors just “ok”, but as I’ve worked with the yarn, I’ve grown quite fond of the colors. It’s such a pleasure to fall deeper in love with a yarn.

Cuff:
Loosely CO 60 sts. I used a long tail cast on, with US size 3 (3.25 mm), then changed to US size 1 (2.25mm) for the sock. I used a set of 4 double pointed needles and distributed the stitches so that there were 20 sts on Needle 1, 20 sts on Needle 2, and 20 sts on Needle 3.

Rounds 1-3: knit.
Round 4: *k1, p1, k2, p1; rep from * around.

Repeat Round 4 until cuff measures 2” (I worked 20 rounds of rib).

Leg:
See the previous blog post for notes about yarn-overs.

Round 1: *k1, p1, yo, ssk, p1; rep from * around.
Round 2: *k1, p1, k2, p1; rep from * around.
Round 3: *k1, p1, k2tog, yo, p1; rep from * around.
Round 4: same as Round 2.

Work these 4 rounds until sock measures ~6 ½ inches, end having finished a Round 4.

Heel Flap:
Knit the first 15 stitches on Needle 1. Place the next 30 sts onto 2 needles. Slip the last 15 stitches from Needle 3 onto Needle 1. The heel flap is worked flat on the 30 sts on Needle 1. The 30 sts on the other 2 needles constitute the instep.

Row 1 (WS): sl1, purl to end.
Row 2: *s1, k1; rep from * to end.

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 until heel flap is approximately 2 inches long, end having finished a Row 1.

Heel Turn:
The turned heel is made up of “short rows” with decreases. This process shapes the heel. As a result, for each row you will work a different number of stitches, and you will end up with fewer total stitches than you started with.

Row 1 (RS): sl1, k16, ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 2: sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 3: sl1, k to 1 st before “gap”, ssk, K1, turn work.
Row 4: sl1, p to 1 st before “gap”, p2tog, P1, turn work.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 18 sts remain, having finished a row 4.

Next row: sl1, knit across.

Gusset:
Pick up and knit 18 sts along the right side of the heel flap. To do this, insert right needle under the first edge stitch (under both strands of the stitch), wrap the working yarn around the needle, and pull a stitch through (one stitch has now been picked up and knitted). Repeat this process until 18 stitches have been picked up.

Slip the following 30 sts onto one needle. These stitches constitute the instep of the sock. Work these 30 sts following Round 1 of the instep pattern (see below).

Pick up and knit 18 sts along the left side of the heel flap.

Onto this same needle, knit the next 9 stitches (from the remaining heel stitches). Slip the remaining 9 heel stitches onto Needle 1 (with the right side gusset).

You now have 27 sts on Needle 1, 30 sts on Needle 2, and 27 sts on Needle 3. The middle of the heel falls between Needle 3 and Needle 1. Consider this point to be the beginning of the round.

Round 1: On Needle 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, work Round 2 of instep pattern. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

Round 2: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, continue working instep pattern as established. On Needle 3, knit.

Rep Rounds 1 & 2 until there are 15 sts on both Needles 1 and 3 (60 sts total).

Instep Stitch Pattern (worked on Needle 2):
Round 1: k5, place marker, (k1, p1, yo, ssk, p1) 4 times, place marker, k5.
Round 2: k5; (k1, p1, k2, p1) 4 times; k5.
Round 3: k5; (k1, p1, k2tog, yo, p1) 4 times; k5.
Round 4: same as Round 2.

Foot:
After completing all the gusset decreases, cont working even, and cont repeating the instep pattern for as long as you want. I worked the instep pattern all the way to the beginning of the toe. Then I continued in st st.

Toe:
The toe is 28 Rounds total.

This toe is shaped so that it gradually narrows. To achieve this effect, you will work a “Decrease Round” more frequently as the toe progresses.

Perform a Decrease Round on Rounds 1, 6, 10, 13, 16, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, and 28. On all other rounds, work even.

Decrease Round: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

At this point, there will be 4 sts on Needle 1, 8 sts on Needle 2, and 4 sts on Needle 3. Now, knit the next 4 sts onto Needle 3, leaving 8 sts on Needle 2 and 8 sts on Needle 3.

Graft the toe using the Kitchener stitch:
Cut the working yarn, leaving a 20 inch or longer tail. Thread this tail through a darning needle. Orient the sock so that the 2 needles are horizontal, the instep side of the sock is facing you, and the working yarn is coming off the right side of the needle in the back.

Step 1: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Step 2: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all stitches have been worked and slipped off the needles.

Weave in all ends.

If you have any questions – or if you find any mistakes – you can either leave a comment on this blog page or email me: atyler@centurytel.net or amy@stonesockfibers.com

This pattern is free, but it is still copyrighted. So, feel free share a copy of this pattern or knit these socks, but please do not sell the pattern or sell socks made from this pattern. Thank you.

5 comments:

  1. Thanks, Amy, for sharing your wonderful patterns!

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  2. Amy, I'm thoroughly enjoying your sock patterns. Hard to believe you're already 1/4 of the way through your 12 planned patterns. I do believe this pattern (April) is my favorite thus far.

    Thanks for doing this - lots of great techniques.

    Lindy Barnes

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    Replies
    1. I'm so glad you like them! I'm having fun creating them.

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