Videos!

Wow! They do exist! In May, I flew out to Fort Collins to shoot some videos for Interweave. And now those videos are available.

F+W provided the images here for promotional purposes.

http://www.interweavestore.com/spinning-worsted-yarns-digital-download

http://www.interweavestore.com/spinning-woolen-yarns-digital-download

http://www.interweavestore.com/spinning-worsted-and-woolen-yarn-dvd

I would love to hear what you think. You can contact me at amy@stonesockfibers.com.

1 x 60 = 60

I’ve reached the half-way mark! Here is the sixth of twelve sock patterns in my journey of 60 stitches. The featured stitch pattern has a 1-stitch repeat. In other words, each round is either knitted or purled. Sixty repeats of a 1-stitch pattern equals 60 stitches total. I’ve grown fond of welts over the past couple years, so I made one up for this sock.

On the leg, you are either knitting a round or purling a round. Some knitters really hate working in purl on double pointed needles because it’s easy for the first stitch on a needle to be loose, creating a sort of break in the work. I’ve devised a strategy to avoid this. If my first stitch on a needle is a knit stitch, I hold the right needle under the previous-now-resting needle. If my first stitch on a needle is a purl stitch, I hold the right needle above the previous-now-resting needle. If this doesn’t work for you, you may want to work this pattern on 1 or 2 circular needles.

The yarn I used was “Finullgarn” by Rauma Garn, made in Norway and distributed in the US by The Yarn Guys. It’s 100% wool, “100% Ren Ny Ull”, in color 406 (a nice heathery light brown that seems to suit the welts). The skeins are about 175 meters, and 50 grams. I used 2 skeins for this pair of socks. I got my gauge (7 ½ sts per inch, 12 rounds per inch) using US size 1 (2.25 mm) needles in stockinette stitch.

Cuff:

Loosely CO 60 sts. I used a long tail cast on, with US size 3 (3.25 mm), then changed to US size 1 (2.25mm) for the sock. I used a set of 4 double pointed needles and distributed the stitches so that there were 20 sts on Needle 1, 20 sts on Needle 2, and 20 sts on Needle 3.

Round 1: *k1, p1, k1, p2; rep from * around.

Repeat Round 1 until cuff measures 1 ½”.

Leg:

Rounds 1-2: knit
Round 3: purl
Rounds 4-5: knit
Rounds 6-9: purl
Rounds 10-11: knit
Round 12: purl
Rounds 13-14: knit

Repeat these 14 rounds until sock measures ~5 ¾ inches unstretched, and ~7 inches stretched, end having finished a Round 14.

Heel Flap:

Knit the first 15 stitches on Needle 1. Place the next 30 sts onto 2 needles. Slip the last 15 stitches from Needle 3 onto Needle 1. The heel flap is worked flat on the 30 sts on Needle 1. The 30 sts on the other two needles constitute the instep.

Row 1 (WS): sl1, purl to end.

Row 2: *s1, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 3: sl1, purl to end.

Row 4: sl1wyib, myf, *p1, sl1; rep from * to last st, k1.

(sl1wyib = slip 1 stitch with the yarn in back; myf = move the yarn to the front)

Repeat Rows 1-4 until heel flap is approximately 2 inches long, end having finished a Row 1.

Heel Turn:

The turned heel is made up of “short rows” with decreases. This process shapes the heel. As a result, for each row you will work a different number of stitches, and you will end up with fewer total stitches than you started with.

Row 1 (RS): sl1, k16, ssk, k1, turn work.

Row 2: sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn work.

Row 3: sl1, k to 1 st before “gap”, ssk, K1, turn work.
Row 4: sl1, p to 1 st before “gap”, p2tog, P1, turn work.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 18 sts remain, having finished a row 4.

Next row: sl1, knit across.

Gusset:

Pick up and knit 18 sts along the right side of the heel flap. To do this, insert right needle under the first edge stitch (under both strands of the stitch), wrap the working yarn around the needle, and pull a stitch through (one stitch has now been picked up and knitted). Repeat this process until 18 stitches have been picked up.

Slip the following 30 sts onto one needle. These stitches constitute the instep of the sock. Work these 30 sts following Round 1 of the instep pattern (see below).

Pick up and knit 18 sts along the left side of the heel flap.

Onto this same needle, knit the next 9 stitches (from the remaining heel stitches). Slip the remaining 9 heel stitches onto Needle 1 (with the right side gusset).

You now have 27 sts on Needle 1, 30 sts on Needle 2, and 27 sts on Needle 3. The middle of the heel falls between Needle 3 and Needle 1. Consider this point to be the beginning of the round.

Round 1: On Needle 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, work Round 2 of instep pattern. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

Round 2: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, continue working instep pattern as established. On Needle 3, knit.

Rep Rounds 1 & 2 until there are 15 sts on both Needles 1 and 3 (60 sts total).

Instep Stitch Pattern (worked on Needle 2):

Rounds 1-2: knit

Round 3: purl
Rounds 4-5: knit
Rounds 6-9: purl
Rounds 10-11: knit
Round 12: purl

Rounds 13-14: knit

Foot:

After completing all the gusset decreases, continue working even, and continue repeating the instep pattern for as long as you want. I worked three repeats of the pattern. Then I continued in st st. Begin the toe when foot of sock measures 2 ½ inches short of foot length.

Toe:

The toe is 30 Rounds total.

This toe is shaped so that it gradually narrows. To achieve this effect, you will work a “Decrease Round” more frequently as the toe progresses.

Perform a Decrease Round on Rounds 1, 6, 10, 14, 17, 20, 23, 25, 27, 29, and 30. On all other rounds, work even.

Decrease Round: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

At this point, there will be 4 sts on Needle 1, 8 sts on Needle 2, and 4 sts on Needle 3. Now, knit the next 4 sts onto Needle 3, leaving 8 sts on Needle 2 and 8 sts on Needle 3.

Graft the toe using the Kitchener stitch:

Cut the working yarn, leaving a 20 inch or longer tail. Thread this tail through a darning needle. Orient the sock so that the 2 needles are horizontal, the instep side of the sock is facing you, and the working yarn is coming off the right side of the needle in the back.

Step 1: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Step 2: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all stitches have been worked and slipped off the needles.

Weave in all ends.

If you have any questions – or if you find any mistakes – you can either leave a comment on this blog page or email me: atyler@centurytel.net or amy@stonesockfibers.com

This pattern is free, but it is still copyrighted. So, feel free share a copy of this pattern or knit these socks, but please do not sell the pattern or sell socks made from this pattern. Thank you.