6 x 10 = 60

Number Nine. Number Nine. Number Nine…

The series of 60 stitch socks continues. Today’s offering is the ninth sock pattern in My Year of Being 60. This sock has a stitch pattern with a repeat of 6 stitches. Ten repeats of a 6-stitch pattern equals 60 stitches total. I’ve used a pattern from Barbara G. Walker’s A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, “Dewdrop Pattern”. I made one minor modification; I used a different double decrease than the one in her pattern. This sweet little eyelet pattern creates holes that seem to be a perfect match for the “dotted” yarn that I used.

I kept the cuff and heel quite simple. The cuff on this sock is long, so that it can be folded over to wear the socks as anklets.

The yarn was one that I’d wanted to knit with for quite some time. I love the colors and it was delightfully smooth and soft slipping through my fingers and onto the needles: “TY-DY Socks Dots” by Knit One Crochet Too. This yarn is 80% superwash wool and 20% nylon, with approximately 436 yards per skein. The color was #6555, “celery.” The label suggests “machine wash, cold water, dry flat." I only needed 1 skein for a pair of socks. I got my gauge (7 ½ sts per inch) using US size 1 (2.25 mm) needles in the dewdrop pattern, slightly stretched.

Cuff:

Loosely CO 60 sts. I used a long tail cast on, with US size 3 (3.25 mm), then changed to US size 1 (2.25mm) for the sock. I used a set of 4 double pointed needles and distributed the stitches so that there were 18 sts on Needle 1, 18 sts on Needle 2, and 24 sts on Needle 3.

Round 1: *k1, p1; rep from * around.

Repeat Round 1 until cuff measures 3 ¼ inches.

Leg:

Here is the modified dewdrop pattern in written instructions:

Rounds 1, 2, 3: *k3, p3; rep from * around.

Round 4: *yo, cdd, yo, k3; rep from * around.
Rounds 5, 6, 7: *p3, k3; rep from * around.
Round 8: *k3, yo, cdd, yo; rep from * around.

cdd = center double decrease; sl2 sts tog knitwise, k1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over the k1.

Here is the pattern charted:

Repeat these 8 rounds until sock measures ~6 ¼ inches, end having finished a Round 8.

Heel Flap:

Knit 18 stitches on Needle 1. Place the next 30 sts onto 2 needles. Slip the last 12 stitches onto Needle 1. The heel flap is worked flat on the 30 sts on Needle 1. The 30 sts on the other two needles constitute the instep.

Row 1 (WS): sl1, purl across.

Row 2: *sl1, k1; rep from * to end.

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 until heel flap is approximately 2 inches long, end having finished a Row 1.

Heel Turn:

The turned heel is made up of “short rows” with decreases. This process shapes the heel. As a result, for each row you will work a different number of stitches, and you will end up with fewer total stitches than you started with.

Row 1 (RS): sl1, k16, ssk, k1, turn work.

Row 2: sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 3: sl1, k to 1 st before “gap”, ssk, K1, turn work.
Row 4: sl1, p to 1 st before “gap”, p2tog, P1, turn work.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until 18 sts remain, having finished a row 4.

Next row: sl1, knit across.

Gusset:

Pick up and knit 18 sts along the right side of the heel flap. To do this, insert right needle under the first edge stitch (under both strands of the stitch), wrap the working yarn around the needle, and pull a stitch through (one stitch has now been picked up and knitted). Repeat this process until 18 stitches have been picked up.

Slip the following 30 sts onto one needle. These stitches constitute the instep of the sock. Work these 30 sts following Round 1 of the dewdrop pattern (see above).

Pick up and knit 18 sts along the left side of the heel flap.

Onto this same needle, knit the next 9 stitches (from the remaining heel stitches). Slip the remaining 9 heel stitches onto Needle 1 (with the right side gusset).

You now have 27 sts on Needle 1, 30 sts on Needle 2, and 27 sts on Needle 3. The middle of the heel falls between Needle 3 and Needle 1. Consider this point to be the beginning of the round.

Round 1: On Needle 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, work Round 2 of dewdrop pattern. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

Round 2: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, continue working instep pattern as established. On Needle 3, knit.

Rep Rounds 1 & 2 until there are 15 sts on Needle 1 and 15 sts on Needle 3 (60 sts total).

Foot:

After completing all the gusset decreases, continue working even, and continue repeating the instep pattern for as long as you want, end having finished either a Round 4 or a Round 8. I worked 8 1/2 repeats of the pattern. Then I continued in st st. Begin the toe when foot of sock measures 2 ½ inches short of foot length.

Toe:

The toe is 30 Rounds total.

This toe is shaped so that it gradually narrows. To achieve this effect, you will work a “Decrease Round” more frequently as the toe progresses.

Perform a Decrease Round on Rounds 1, 6, 10, 14, 17, 20, 23, 25, 27, 29, and 30. On all other rounds, work even.

Decrease Round: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

After all decreases, there will be 16 sts rem: 4 sts on Needle 1, 8 sts on Needle 2, and 4 sts on Needle 3. Now, knit the next 4 sts onto Needle 3, leaving 8 sts on Needle 2 and 8 sts on Needle 3.

Graft the toe using the Kitchener stitch:

Cut the working yarn, leaving a 20 inch or longer tail. Thread this tail through a darning needle. Orient the sock so that the 2 needles are horizontal, the instep side of the sock is facing you, and the working yarn is coming off the right side of the needle in the back.

Step 1: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Step 2: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all stitches have been worked and slipped off the needles.

Weave in all ends.

If you have any questions – or if you find any mistakes – you can either leave a comment on this blog page or email me: atyler@centurytel.net or amy@stonesockfibers.com

This pattern is free, but it is still copyrighted. So, feel free share a copy of this pattern or knit these socks, but please do not sell the pattern. Thank you.

My Cowl Pattern is Published!

Earlier this year I designed a knitted cowl that uses “energized” singles to create a three-dimensional topography effect. The knitting is simple, but because of the twist in the yarn the cowl has a gentle texture to it. I used a gradient dyed combed top that I got from Kimber Baldwin of Fiber Optic Yarns in a colorway she calls “Steam Punk Gradient”.

I am excited to report that this cowl is now published in the special issue from Interweave of SpinOff: Spin and Knit.

Here are some photos courtesy of Spin Off: Spin and Knit 2017 © 2017 F&W. All rights reserved.

The magazine will be available on newsstands October 25, 2016. But it is now available online through the Interweave store.

To purchase the print edition:

http://www.interweavestore.com/spin-off-spin-and-knit-2017

To purchase the digital edition:

http://www.interweavestore.com/spin-off-spin-and-knit-2017-digital-download

Don’t you think this cowl would make a charming present? So small and easy to spin and knit!

Interlochen Fiber Arts Weekend

In just a few days – Friday, October 14 and Saturday, October 15 – Interlochen Center for the Arts will host its annual Fiber Arts Weekend. This two-day event offers workshops on spinning, weaving, dyeing, and rug hooking. On Saturday I’m teaching Support Spindles Big and Small, in which we’ll explore the Navajo spindle with wool, the Russian spindle with cashmere, and the Tahkli spindle with cotton.

Also, on Friday evening, the film TheTrue Cost  will be shown. This is a documentary about the global impact of the fashion industry on people and the environment. Following the film there will be a panel discussion. Panelists include:

• Jasmine Lace Petrie, fiber artist and upcycler
• Nancy McRay, weaver and pattern designer
• Brad Kik, Crosshatch
• Yana Dee, retailer and clothing designer
• Petra Novella, assistant to Yana Dee
• Lori Evesque, Michigan Fiber Coalition

The autumn colors are continuing to unfold. Now is a perfect time to visit this corner of Michigan for the color and the fiber!

15 x 4 = 60

And now for Sock Number Eight in my series of twelve sock patterns to celebrate being 60 years old. This sock has a stitch pattern with a repeat of 15 stitches. Four repeats of a 15-stitch pattern equals 60 stitches total. While considering what stitch pattern to use I found myself admiring a number of lace patterns that incorporate a bit of garter stitch. I ended up modifying and combining two patterns that I found (#47 “Garter Inverted V Eyelets” and #115 “Open Basketweave” both from Knit Stitch Dictionary by DebbieTomkies), and I also incorporated a bit of garter stitch into the cuff and heel.

My standard operating procedure for socks is to work on a set of four double pointed needles. But because this sock involves four repeats of 15, I opted to work on a set of five double pointed needles: 4 to hold the stitches and 1 to work with. I used this 5-needle strategy for the leg; then I switched back to my usual 4-needle strategy for the foot.

The yarn I used was “Jilly” by Dream (dreamincoloryarn.com). This is a singles yarn (not plied). I’m usually not a big fan of singles yarns for socks (check out an old blog post, My Middlemarch, if you want more detail), and it may be that these socks won’t hold up well, but I just had to use the yarn. For one, it was a birthday gift. For another, I am in love with the colorway (“Poppy”, #736): a charming combination of reds that reminds me of cherry popsicles and red hots. This yarn is 100% superwash merino wool, with 440 yards per skein. The label does suggest “machine wash gentle cycle in cold water, lay flat to dry.” I only needed 1 skein for a pair of socks. I got my gauge (7 ½ sts per inch) using US size 1 (2.25 mm) needles in the lace stitch patterns.

Cuff:

Loosely CO 60 sts. I used a long tail cast on, with US size 3 (3.25 mm), then changed to US size 1 (2.25mm) for the sock. I used a set of 5 double pointed needles and distributed the stitches so that there were 15 sts on Needle 1, 15 sts on Needle 2, 15 sts on Needle 3, and 15 sts on Needle 4.

Round 1: * k3, p2; rep from * around.

Round 2: knit.

Repeat Rounds 1 & 2 until cuff measures 1 ¾ inches, end having finished a Round 2.

Leg:

Here is the pattern in written instructions:

Round 1: *k1, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * around.

Round 2: *k3, p7, k3, p2; rep from * around.
Round 3: *k2, yo, ssk, k5, k2to, yo, k4; rep from * around.
Round 4: *k4, p5, k4, p2; rep from * around.
Round 5: *k3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k5; rep from * around.
Round 6: *k5, p3, k5, p2; rep from * around.
Round 7: *k4, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k6; rep from * around.
Round 8: *k6, p1, k6, p2; rep from * around.

Round 9: *k6, yo, ssk, k7; rep from * around.

Round 10: *k13, p2; rep from * around.
Rounds 11, 13, 15, 17: *k2, p9, k4; rep from * around.
Rounds 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22: knit.
Rounds 19, 21: *p3, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, p5; rep from * around.

Here is the pattern charted:

Repeat these 22 rounds until sock measures ~6 ½ inches, end having finished a Round 22.

Note that for the rest of the sock, I am working with 4 double pointed needles, not 5.

Heel Flap:

Knit 21 stitches on Needle 1. Place the next 31 sts onto 2 needles. Slip the last 8 stitches onto Needle 1. The heel flap is worked flat on the 29 sts on Needle 1. The 31 sts on the other two needles constitute the instep.

Row 1 (WS): sl1wyif, myb, knit to last st, p1.

Row Row 2: *sl1, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.

(sl1wyif = slip 1 stitch with the yarn in front; myb = move the yarn to the back)

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 until heel flap is approximately 2 inches long, end having finished a Row 1.

Heel Turn:

The turned heel is made up of “short rows” with decreases. This process shapes the heel. As a result, for each row you will work a different number of stitches, and you will end up with fewer total stitches than you started with.

Row 1 (RS): sl1, k15, ssk, k1, turn work.

Row 2: sl1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 3: sl1, k to 1 st before “gap”, ssk, K1, turn work.
Row 4: sl1, p to 1 st before “gap”, p2tog, P1, turn work.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 17 sts remain, having finished a row 4.

Next row: sl1, knit across.

Gusset:

Pick up and knit 20 sts along the right side of the heel flap. To do this, insert right needle under the first edge stitch (under both strands of the stitch), wrap the working yarn around the needle, and pull a stitch through (one stitch has now been picked up and knitted). Repeat this process until 20 stitches have been picked up.

Slip the following 31 sts onto one needle. These stitches constitute the instep of the sock. Work these 31 sts following Round 1 of the instep pattern (see below).

Pick up and knit 20 sts along the left side of the heel flap.

Onto this same needle, knit the next 8 stitches (from the remaining heel stitches). Slip the remaining 9 heel stitches onto Needle 1 (with the right side gusset).

You now have 29 sts on Needle 1, 31 sts on Needle 2, and 28 sts on Needle 3. The middle of the heel falls between Needle 3 and Needle 1. Consider this point to be the beginning of the round.

Round 1: On Needle 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, work Round 2 of instep pattern. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

Round 2: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, continue working instep pattern as established. On Needle 3, knit.

Rep Rounds 1 & 2 until there are 15 sts on Needle 1 and 14 sts on Needle 3 (60 sts total).

Instep Stitch Pattern (worked on Needle 2):

Here is the instep pattern in written instructions:

Round 1: k4, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, ssk, k4.

Round 2: k1, p3, k3, p2, k3, p7, k3, p2, k3, p3, k1.
Round 3: k3, k2tog, yo, k6, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k6, yo, ssk, k3.
Round 4: k1, p2, k4, p2, k4, p5, k4, p2, k4, p2, k1.
Round 5: k2, k2tog, yo, k8, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k8, yo, ssk, k2.
Round 6: k1, p1, k5, p2, k5, p3, k5, p2, k5, p1, k1.
Round 7: k1, k2tog, yo, k10, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k10, yo, ssk, k1.
Round 8: k7, p2, k6, p1, k6, p2, k7.
Round 9: k15, yo, ssk, k14.
Round 10: k7, p2, k13, p2, k7.
Rounds 11, 13, 15, 17: k1, p4, k6, p9, k6, p4, k1.
Rounds 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22: knit.
Rounds 19, 21: k2, ssk, yo, p8, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, p8, yo, k2tog, k2.

Here is the instep pattern charted:

Foot:

After completing all the gusset decreases, continue working even, and continue repeating the instep pattern for as long as you want. I worked three repeats of the pattern. Then I continued in st st. Begin the toe when foot of sock measures 2 ½ inches short of foot length.

Toe:

The toe is 30 Rounds total.

Because there is a different number of sts for instep and sole of the foot, Round 1 of the toe contains 2 decreases as follows:

Round 1: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, knit.

This toe is then shaped so that it gradually narrows. To achieve this effect, you will work a “Decrease Round” more frequently as the toe progresses.

Perform a Decrease Round on Rounds 6, 10, 14, 17, 20, 23, 25, 27, 29, and 30. On all other rounds (except Round 1 as described above), work even.

Decrease Round: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

After all decreases, there will be 18 sts rem: 5 sts on Needle 1, 9 sts on Needle 2, and 4 sts on Needle 3. Now, knit the next 5 sts onto Needle 3, leaving 9 sts on Needle 2 and 9 sts on Needle 3.

Graft the toe using the Kitchener stitch:

Cut the working yarn, leaving a 20 inch or longer tail. Thread this tail through a darning needle. Orient the sock so that the 2 needles are horizontal, the instep side of the sock is facing you, and the working yarn is coming off the right side of the needle in the back.

Step 1: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Step 2: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all stitches have been worked and slipped off the needles.

Weave in all ends.

If you have any questions – or if you find any mistakes – you can either leave a comment on this blog page or email me: atyler@centurytel.net or amy@stonesockfibers.com

This pattern is free, but it is still copyrighted. So, feel free share a copy of this pattern or knit these socks, but please do not sell the pattern or sell socks made from this pattern. Thank you.