In the Dog
Days of Summer, let the second half of my journey begin! Here is the seventh
sock pattern in my series of twelve. They all are to help me celebrate My Year of Being 60. The featured stitch pattern has a 2-stitch
repeat. Thirty repeats of a 2-stitch pattern equals 60 stitches total.
This pattern
was the toughest decision so far. With just 2 stitches, a lot can happen: you
can twist stitches (mini-cables), you can knit lace, you can slip stitches, you
can create ribbing. My first idea was to create a broken rib pattern,
interrupted with the occasional garter ridge. Here is the stitch pattern that I
came up with for this first idea:
Rounds 1-3:
*p1, k1; rep around.
Round 4: knit.
Round 5: purl.
Round 6: knit.
Rounds 7-13:
*k1, p1; rep around.
Round 14: knit.
Round 15: purl.
Round 16 knit.
I really liked
this sweet, simple pattern. But my head got so distracted by so many other
2-stitch patterns. It got me thinking of trying to write a booklet of just
2-stitch patterns. Actually, just thinking about it now, my head nearly
explodes with ideas. (I love that about knitting!)
Anyway, I put
this pattern aside for something else. Besides this 60-stitch sock journey,
I’ve been spending time this year playing with combinations of lace and slipped stitches. I thought this 2x30 sock would be a good
opportunity to create such a pattern. So, that’s what I did.
The yarn I used
was a birthday gift from my friend Sylvia. It’s “Pakokku Sock yarn” by ITW (intothewhirled.com). The color is “As You Wish”. The yarn is
75% superwash merino and 25% nylon (the yarn tag does suggest handwashing). The
skein has ~460 yards and 3.5 ounces. So, one skein is all you need. I got my
gauge (7 ½ sts per inch, 12 rounds per inch) using US size 1 (2.25 mm) needles in
the pattern stitch (see below).
Cuff:
Loosely CO 60
sts. I used a long tail cast on, with US size 3 (3.25 mm), then changed to US
size 1 (2.25mm) for the sock. I used a set of 4 double pointed needles and
distributed the stitches so that there were 20 sts on Needle 1, 20 sts on
Needle 2, and 20 sts on Needle 3.
Round 1: *k2,
p2; rep from * around.
Repeat Round 1 until
cuff measures 2 inches. Then, knit 1 round.
Leg:
Round 1: *k1,
sl1wyif; rep from * around.
Rounds 2, 4, 6,
8, 10, 12: knit.
Round 3:
*sl1wyif, k1; rep from * around.
Round 5: *yo,
k2tog; rep from * around.
Round 7:
*sl1wyif, k1; rep from * around.
Round 9: *k1,
sl1wyif; rep from * around.
Round 11: *ssk,
yo; rep from * around.
Repeat these 12
rounds until sock measures ~6 inches, end having finished a Round 12. (Note:
sl1wyif = slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front)
Heel Flap:
Knit the first
14 stitches on Needle 1. Place the next 30 sts onto 2 needles. Slip the last 16
stitches from Needle 3 onto Needle 1. The heel flap is worked flat on the 30
sts on Needle 1. The 30 sts on the other two needles constitute the instep.
Row 1 (WS):
sl1, purl to end.
Row 2: s1wyib;
*sl1wyif, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 3: sl1,
purl to end.
Row 4: sl1wyib;
*k1, sl1wyif; rep from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat Rows 1-4
until heel flap is approximately 2 inches long, end having finished a Row 1 or
Row 3. (Note: sl1wyib = slip 1 stitch purlwise with the yarn in back)
Heel Turn:
The turned heel is made up of “short rows” with decreases. This process
shapes the heel. As a result, for each row you will work a different number of
stitches, and you will end up with fewer total stitches than you started with.
Row 1 (RS):
sl1, k16, ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 2: sl1, p5,
p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 3: sl1, k to 1 st before “gap”, ssk, K1, turn
work.
Row 4: sl1, p to 1 st before “gap”, p2tog, P1, turn work.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 18 sts remain, having finished a row 4.
Next row: sl1, knit across.
Gusset:
Pick up and knit 18 sts along the right side of the heel flap. To do
this, insert right needle under the first edge stitch (under both strands of
the stitch), wrap the working yarn around the needle, and pull a stitch through
(one stitch has now been picked up and knitted). Repeat this process until 18
stitches have been picked up.
Slip the following 30 sts onto one needle. These stitches constitute the
instep of the sock. Work these 30 sts following Round 1 of the instep pattern
(see below).
Pick up and knit 18 sts along the left side of the heel flap.
Onto this same needle, knit the next 9 stitches (from the remaining heel
stitches). Slip the remaining 9 heel stitches onto Needle 1 (with the right
side gusset).
You now have 27 sts on Needle 1, 30 sts on Needle 2, and 27 sts on
Needle 3. The middle of the heel falls between Needle 3 and Needle 1. Consider
this point to be the beginning of the round.
Round 1: On Needle 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, work as
established in instep pattern. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.
Round 2: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, work as established in instep
pattern. On Needle 3, knit.
Rep Rounds 1 & 2 until there are 15 sts on both Needles 1 and 3 (60
sts total).
Instep
Stitch Pattern (worked on Needle 2):
Round 1: *k1,
sl1wyif; rep from * to end of needle.
Rounds 2, 4, 6,
8, 10, 12: knit.
Round 3:
*sl1wyif, k1; rep from * to end of needle.
Round 5: *yo,
k2tog; rep from * to end of needle.
Round 7:
*sl1wyif, k1; rep from * to end of needle.
Round 9: *k1,
sl1wyif; rep from * to end of needle.
Round 11: *ssk,
yo; rep from * to end of needle.
Foot:
After completing all the gusset decreases, continue working even, and
continue repeating the instep pattern for as long as you want. I worked five
repeats of the pattern plus rounds 1-3. Then I continued in st st. Begin the toe
when foot of sock measures 2 ½ inches short of foot length.
Toe:
The toe is 30
Rounds total.
This toe is
shaped so that it gradually narrows. To achieve this effect, you will work a
“Decrease Round” more frequently as the toe progresses.
Perform a
Decrease Round on Rounds 1, 6, 10, 14, 17, 20, 23, 25, 27, 29, and 30. On all
other rounds, work even.
Decrease
Round: On Needle 1,
knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog,
k1. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.
At this point,
there will be 4 sts on Needle 1, 8 sts on Needle 2, and 4 sts on Needle 3. Now,
knit the next 4 sts onto Needle 3, leaving 8 sts on Needle 2 and 8 sts on
Needle 3.
Graft the toe using the Kitchener
stitch:
Cut
the working yarn, leaving a 20 inch or longer tail. Thread this tail through a
darning needle. Orient the sock so that the 2 needles are horizontal, the
instep side of the sock is facing you, and the working yarn is coming off the
right side of the needle in the back.
Step 1: Insert darning
needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, pull the yarn
through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the
next stitch on the front needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and leave
this stitch on the needle.
Step 2: Insert darning
needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn
through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the
next stitch on the back needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and leave
this stitch on the needle.
Repeat Steps 1
and 2 until all stitches have been worked and slipped off the needles.
Weave in all
ends.
This pattern is
free, but it is still copyrighted. So, feel free share a copy of this pattern
or knit these socks, but please do not sell the pattern or sell socks made from
this pattern. Thank you.