This pattern was the toughest decision so far. With just 2 stitches, a lot can happen: you can twist stitches (mini-cables), you can knit lace, you can slip stitches, you can create ribbing. My first idea was to create a broken rib pattern, interrupted with the occasional garter ridge. Here is the stitch pattern that I came up with for this first idea:
Rounds 1-3: *p1, k1; rep around.Round 4: knit.
Round 5: purl.
Round 6: knit.
Rounds 7-13: *k1, p1; rep around.
Round 14: knit.
Round 15: purl.
Round 16 knit.
I really liked this sweet, simple pattern. But my head got so distracted by so many other 2-stitch patterns. It got me thinking of trying to write a booklet of just 2-stitch patterns. Actually, just thinking about it now, my head nearly explodes with ideas. (I love that about knitting!)
Anyway, I put this pattern aside for something else. Besides this 60-stitch sock journey, I’ve been spending time this year playing with combinations of lace and slipped stitches. I thought this 2x30 sock would be a good opportunity to create such a pattern. So, that’s what I did.
The yarn I used was a birthday gift from my friend Sylvia. It’s “Pakokku Sock yarn” by ITW (intothewhirled.com). The color is “As You Wish”. The yarn is 75% superwash merino and 25% nylon (the yarn tag does suggest handwashing). The skein has ~460 yards and 3.5 ounces. So, one skein is all you need. I got my gauge (7 ½ sts per inch, 12 rounds per inch) using US size 1 (2.25 mm) needles in the pattern stitch (see below).
Cuff:Loosely CO 60 sts. I used a long tail cast on, with US size 3 (3.25 mm), then changed to US size 1 (2.25mm) for the sock. I used a set of 4 double pointed needles and distributed the stitches so that there were 20 sts on Needle 1, 20 sts on Needle 2, and 20 sts on Needle 3.
Round 1: *k2, p2; rep from * around.
Repeat Round 1 until cuff measures 2 inches. Then, knit 1 round.
Leg:Round 1: *k1, sl1wyif; rep from * around.
Rounds 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12: knit.
Round 3: *sl1wyif, k1; rep from * around.
Round 5: *yo, k2tog; rep from * around.
Round 7: *sl1wyif, k1; rep from * around.
Round 9: *k1, sl1wyif; rep from * around.
Round 11: *ssk, yo; rep from * around.
Repeat these 12 rounds until sock measures ~6 inches, end having finished a Round 12. (Note: sl1wyif = slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front)
Heel Flap:Knit the first 14 stitches on Needle 1. Place the next 30 sts onto 2 needles. Slip the last 16 stitches from Needle 3 onto Needle 1. The heel flap is worked flat on the 30 sts on Needle 1. The 30 sts on the other two needles constitute the instep.
Row 1 (WS): sl1, purl to end.Row 2: s1wyib; *sl1wyif, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 3: sl1, purl to end.
Row 4: sl1wyib; *k1, sl1wyif; rep from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat Rows 1-4 until heel flap is approximately 2 inches long, end having finished a Row 1 or Row 3. (Note: sl1wyib = slip 1 stitch purlwise with the yarn in back)
Heel Turn:The turned heel is made up of “short rows” with decreases. This process shapes the heel. As a result, for each row you will work a different number of stitches, and you will end up with fewer total stitches than you started with.
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k16, ssk, k1, turn work.Row 2: sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 3: sl1, k to 1 st before “gap”, ssk, K1, turn work.
Row 4: sl1, p to 1 st before “gap”, p2tog, P1, turn work.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 18 sts remain, having finished a row 4.
Next row: sl1, knit across.
Gusset:Pick up and knit 18 sts along the right side of the heel flap. To do this, insert right needle under the first edge stitch (under both strands of the stitch), wrap the working yarn around the needle, and pull a stitch through (one stitch has now been picked up and knitted). Repeat this process until 18 stitches have been picked up.
Slip the following 30 sts onto one needle. These stitches constitute the instep of the sock. Work these 30 sts following Round 1 of the instep pattern (see below).
Pick up and knit 18 sts along the left side of the heel flap.
Onto this same needle, knit the next 9 stitches (from the remaining heel stitches). Slip the remaining 9 heel stitches onto Needle 1 (with the right side gusset).
You now have 27 sts on Needle 1, 30 sts on Needle 2, and 27 sts on Needle 3. The middle of the heel falls between Needle 3 and Needle 1. Consider this point to be the beginning of the round.
Round 1: On Needle 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, work as established in instep pattern. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.
Round 2: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, work as established in instep pattern. On Needle 3, knit.
Rep Rounds 1 & 2 until there are 15 sts on both Needles 1 and 3 (60 sts total).
Instep Stitch Pattern (worked on Needle 2):
Round 1: *k1, sl1wyif; rep from * to end of needle.Rounds 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12: knit.
Round 3: *sl1wyif, k1; rep from * to end of needle.
Round 5: *yo, k2tog; rep from * to end of needle.
Round 7: *sl1wyif, k1; rep from * to end of needle.
Round 9: *k1, sl1wyif; rep from * to end of needle.
Round 11: *ssk, yo; rep from * to end of needle.
Foot:After completing all the gusset decreases, continue working even, and continue repeating the instep pattern for as long as you want. I worked five repeats of the pattern plus rounds 1-3. Then I continued in st st. Begin the toe when foot of sock measures 2 ½ inches short of foot length.
Toe:The toe is 30 Rounds total.
This toe is shaped so that it gradually narrows. To achieve this effect, you will work a “Decrease Round” more frequently as the toe progresses.
Perform a Decrease Round on Rounds 1, 6, 10, 14, 17, 20, 23, 25, 27, 29, and 30. On all other rounds, work even.
Decrease Round: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.
At this point, there will be 4 sts on Needle 1, 8 sts on Needle 2, and 4 sts on Needle 3. Now, knit the next 4 sts onto Needle 3, leaving 8 sts on Needle 2 and 8 sts on Needle 3.
Graft the toe using the Kitchener stitch:
Cut the working yarn, leaving a 20 inch or longer tail. Thread this tail through a darning needle. Orient the sock so that the 2 needles are horizontal, the instep side of the sock is facing you, and the working yarn is coming off the right side of the needle in the back.
Step 1: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.Step 2: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.
Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all stitches have been worked and slipped off the needles.
Weave in all ends.
If you have any questions – or if you find any mistakes – you can either leave a comment on this blog page or email me: firstname.lastname@example.org or email@example.com
This pattern is free, but it is still copyrighted. So, feel free share a copy of this pattern or knit these socks, but please do not sell the pattern or sell socks made from this pattern. Thank you.