Used Majacraft Little Gem Spinning Wheel for Sale

I am helping a friend sell a couple of her many spinning wheels. The first one up is a Little Gem wheel, made by Majacraft. This a folding wheel and is light in weight, making it perfect for travel. She bought it new in 2005. It comes with 3 bobbins. She may at one time have had the carrying bag and lazy kate, but she can’t find them. There are 5 drive ratios on this wheel. It’s double treadle, scotch tension, with a delta orifice. The drive bands are in very good shape. The wheel itself is also in good shape, but a bit dusty. I’ve been cleaning it up. It treadles and spins nicely.

You can find information about this wheel (including downloadable manuals) on the Majacraft website.

New, this wheel would cost about $900 - $1000 (without the bag and lazy kate). The asking price is $600. I’d rather not ship this wheel (but if I did, the buyer would cover packaging, shipping, and insurance costs). I am willing to drive a bit to deliver or meet. I live in Lake Ann, MI. If you are interested, or if you have questions, you can contact me: atyler@centurytel.net

12 X 5 = 60

Here is the second of twelve sock patterns in my journey of 60 stitches. The featured stitch pattern is a 12-stitch repeat. So, 5 repeats equals 60 stitches total. I’ve modified a twist stitch pattern – “Little Wave” – from A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns by Barbara G. Walker.

I mirrored the pattern to change it from a 6-stitch repeat to a 12-stitch repeat.

I used a yarn from my stash that I have learned is now discontinued: Great American Yarns “Soft Sea Wool”. Too bad it’s discontinued, because it is a pleasure to knit. I’m glad I recently bought a lot of it discounted at the nearby Lost Art Yarn Shoppe.

This yarn is 100% wool, and comes in skeins of 50 grams, approximately 162 yards per skein. I used 2 skeins. (I wear a size 6 ½ shoe, so if your feet are larger, you might need more yardage.) I used color 0754, a dusty yellow that really shows off the stitch pattern. I got my gauge (7 ½ sts per inch, 11 rounds per inch) using US size 2 (2.75mm) needles in stockinette stitch.

Cuff:

Loosely CO 60 sts. I used a long tail cast on, and US size 4 (3.5mm) for the cast on, then changed to US size 2 (2.75mm) for the sock. I used a set of 4 double pointed needles and distributed the stitches so that there were 18 sts on Needle 1, 18 sts on Needle 2, and 24 sts on Needle 3.

Round 1: *k3, p3; rep from * around.

Repeat Round 1 for approximately 1 ½ inches (18 rounds).

Leg:

See the previous blog post for notes about RT and LT.

Round 1: knit.

Round 2: *k4, p2, k3, p2, k1; rep from * around.
Round 3: *k3, LT, k5, RT; rep from * around.
Round 4: *k3, p1, k1, p1; rep from * around.
Round 5: *k4, LT, k3, RT, k1; rep from * around.
Round 6: *k3, p2, k5, p2; rep from * around.
Round 7: knit.
Round 8: same as Round 6.
Round 9: *k4, RT, k3, LT, k1; rep from * around.
Round 10: same as Round 4.
Round 11: *k3, RT, k5, LT; rep from * around.
Round 12: same as Round 2.

Work these 12 rounds until sock measures ~6 ½ inches, end having finished a Round 6.

ON THE LAST ROUND OF LEG: work to the last stitch; do not work the last stitch but rather slip it from the end of Needle 3 to the beginning of Needle 1.

Heel Flap:

Redistribute the stitches as follows: 29 sts on Needle 1, 16 sts on Needle 2, and 15 sts on Needle 3.

The heel flap is worked flat on the 29 sts on Needle 1. The 31 sts on the other 2 needles constitute the instep. The twisted stitch pattern is continued on the heel flap.

Row 1 (RS): sl1, knit to end.

Row 2: (WS): sl1, (p3, k2, p5, k2) twice, p4.
Row 3: sl1, (k4, RT, k3, LT, k1) twice, k4.
Row 4: sl1, (p3, k1, p1, k1) four times, p4.
Row 5: sl1, (k3, RT, k5, LT) twice, k4.
Row 6: sl1, (p4, k2, p3, k2, p1) twice, p4.
Row 7: sl1, knit to end.
Row 8: same as Row 6.
Row 9: sl1, (k3, LT, k5, RT) twice, k4.
Row 10: same as Row 4.
Row 11: sl1, (k4, LT, K3, RT, k1) twice, k4.
Row 12: same as Row 2.

Rep Rows 1-12 once more (work 2 times total)

Row 13: sl1, knit to end.

Row 14: sl1, purl to end.

Heel flap should be approximately 2 inches long. If necessary, rep Rows 13-14 to get desired length of heel flap.

Heel Turn:

The turned heel is made up of “short rows” with decreases. This process shapes the heel. As a result, for each row you will work a different number of stitches, and you will end up with fewer total stitches than when you started.

Row 1 (RS): sl1, k15, ssk, k1, turn work.

Row 2: sl1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 3: sl1, k to 1 st before “gap”, ssk, K1, turn work.
Row 4: sl1, p to 1 st before “gap”, p2tog, P1, turn work.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 17 sts remain, having finished a row 4.

Next row: sl1, knit across.

Gusset:

Pick up and knit 14 sts along the right side of the heel flap. To do this, insert right needle under the first edge stitch (under both strands of the stitch), wrap the working yarn around the needle, and pull a stitch through (one stitch has now been picked up and knitted). Repeat this process until 14 stitches have been picked up.

Slip the following 31 sts onto one needle. These stitches constitute the instep of the sock. Work these 31 sts following Round 1 of the instep pattern (see below).

Pick up and knit 14 sts along the left side of the heel flap.

Onto this same needle, knit the next 8 stitches (from the remaining heel stitches). Slip the remaining 9 heel stitches onto Needle 1 (with the right side gusset).

You now have 23 sts on Needle 1, 31 sts on Needle 2, and 22 sts on Needle 3. The middle of the heel falls between Needle 3 and Needle 1. Consider this point to be the beginning of the round.

Round 1: On Needle 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, work Round 2 of instep pattern. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

Round 2: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, cont working instep pattern as established. On Needle 3, knit.

Rep Rounds 1 & 2 until there are 15 sts on Needle 1 and 14 sts on Needle 3 (60 sts total).

Instep Stitch Pattern (worked on Needle 2):

Round 1: knit.
Round 2: k5, (k1, p2, k3, p2, k4) twice, k2.
Round 3: k5, (LT, k5, RT, k3) twice, k2.
Round 4: K5, (p1, k1, p1, k3) four times, k2.
Round 5: k5, (k1, LT, k3, RT, k4) twice, k2.
Round 6: k5, (p2, k5, p2, k3) twice, k2.
Round 7: knit.
Round 8: same as Round 6.
Round 9: k5, (k1, RT, k3, LT, k4) twice, k2.
Round 10: same as Round 4.
Round 11: k5, (RT, k5, LT, k3) twice, k2.
Round 12: same as Round 2.

Foot:

After completing all the gusset decreases, cont working even, and cont repeating the instep pattern for as long as you want. I worked a total of 4 ½ repeats of the instep pattern, then I worked Rounds 7-12 once more on just the center 9 sts of the instep.

Work even in st st until foot measures 2 ½ in shorter than desired foot length.

Toe:

The toe is 28 Rounds total.

Because there is a different number of sts for instep and sole of the foot, Round 1 of the toe contains 2 decreases as follows:

Round 1: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, knit.

This toe is then shaped so that it gradually narrows. To achieve this effect, you will work a “Decrease Round” more frequently as the toe progresses.

Perform a Decrease Round on Rounds 5, 9, 12, 15, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 27, and 28. On all other rounds (except Round 1 as described above), work even.

Decrease Round: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

At this point, there will be 4 sts on Needle 1, 7 sts on Needle 2, and 3 sts on Needle 3. Now, knit the next 4 sts onto Needle 3, leaving 7 sts on Needle 2 and 7 sts on Needle 3.

Graft the toe using the Kitchener stitch:

Cut the working yarn, leaving a 20 inch or longer tail. Thread this tail through a darning needle. Orient the sock so that the 2 needles are horizontal, the instep side of the sock is facing you, and the working yarn is coming off the right side of the needle in the back.

Step 1: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Step 2: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Instert darning needle into the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all stitches have been worked and slipped off the needles.

Weave in all ends.

If you have any questions – or if you find any mistakes – you can either leave a comment on this blog page or email me: atyler@centurytel.net or amy@stonesockfibers.com

This pattern is free, but it is still copyrighted. So, please feel free share a copy of this pattern or knit these socks, but please do not sell the pattern or sell socks made from this pattern. Thank you.

RT and LT

I’ve been working on my March sock pattern. It features a twist stitch pattern that I modified from a BG Walker pattern.

Both right twist (RT) and left twist (LT) maneuvers are used in the pattern. You can think of these moves as 2-stitch cables, easy enough to perform without the use of a cable needle.

Here’s what I usually do:

For RT: skip one stitch, knit the second stitch, then knit the skipped stitch and slip both stitches from the left needle to the right needle.

For LT: skip one stitch, knit the second stitch in the back loop, then knit the skipped stitch in the front loop and slip both stitches from the left needle to the right needle.

Barbara Walker, however, suggested a different method for RT and LT:

RT – BGW style: k2tog, leaving stitches on left needle, then insert right needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together and knit the first stitch again, then slip both stitches from the left needle to the right needle.

LT – BGW style: with right needle behind left needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in the back loop, then insert right needle into the backs of both stitches (the skipped stitch and the second stitch) and k2tog through the back loops, then slip both stitches from the left needle to the right needle.

For a change of pace, I opted to do RT and LT as Ms. Walker suggests. It took only a couple of times with this new-to-me strategy before it became second nature.

I like both ways. And now I can choose. It’s always nice to try new things.

20 X 3 = 60

Here’s the first of twelve sock patterns in my journey of 60 stitches. The featured stitch pattern is a 20-stitch repeat. So, 3 repeats equals 60 stitches total. I’m using a knit-purl stitch pattern that I have used before for some socks for my friend Sylvia VM . The cuff includes a picot hem and some eyelet rows. The 20-stitch pattern is used on the leg and on the instep of the foot.

The stitch pattern is from the Harmony Guide to Practical Knitting Stitches (1983, Collins & Brown, London): pattern I.21. It’s a charming curved welt pattern.

I’ve used a yarn made by Pagewood Farm called “St. Elias” in a colorway called “Peaceful”. It’s 80% Bluefaced Leicester wool and 20% nylon. The colors in this yarn complement the curved welts of the stitch pattern to create a watery, wavy effect. I got my gauge (7 ½ sts per in, 11 rounds per in) using US size 1 (2.25mm) needles in stockinette stitch.

Cuff:

Loosely CO 60 sts. I used a knit cast on. I used a set of 4 double pointed needles and distributed the stitches so that there were 20 sts on each of three needles.

Rounds 1-5: knit

Round 6: *p2tog, yo; rep from * around.
Rounds 7-13: knit
Rounds 14 & 20: purl
Rounds 15 & 21: *k2tog, yo; rep from * around.
Rounds 16 & 22: purl
Rounds 17-19: knit
Rounds 23-24: knit

Leg:

Here is where the welt pattern begins.

Round 1: *k5, p9, k6; rep from * around.

Round 2: *k4, p11, k5; rep from * around.
Round 3: *k3, p13, k4; rep from * around.
Round 4: *k2, p4, k7, p4, k3; rep from * around.
Round 5: *k2, p3, k9, p3, k3; rep from * around.
Round 6: *k2, p2, p11, p2, k3; rep from * around.
Round 7: *k2, p1, k13, p1, k3; rep from * around.
Round 8: *p3, k13, p4; rep from * around.
Round 9: *p4, k11, p5; rep from * around.
Round 10: *p5, k9, p6; rep from * around.
Round 11: *k2, p4, k7, p4, k3; rep from * around.
Round 12: *k3, p3, k7, p3, k4; rep from * around.
Round 13: *k4, p2, p7, p2, k5; rep from * around.
Round 14: *k5, p1, k7, p1, k6; rep from * around.

Work these 14 rounds a total of 4 times.

Heel Flap:

The heel flap and heel turn are worked flat.

K14. Then rearrange the next 31 sts onto 2 needles. These 31 sts comprise the instep of the foot. Slip the last 15 sts onto the first needle (the needle with the 14 k sts). These 29 sts comprise the heel flap.

Row 1 (WS): sl1, p to end.

Row 2: *sl1, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Rep rows 1 & 2 until heel flap is approx. 2” long, end having finished a Row 1, ready to start a RS row.

Heel Turn:

The turned heel is made up of “short rows” with decreases. This process shapes the heel. As a result, for each row you will work a different number of stitches, and you will end up with fewer total stitches than when you started.

Row 1 (RS): sl1, k15, ssk, k1, turn work.

Row 2: sl1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 3: sl1, k to 1 st before “gap”, ssk, K1, turn work.
Row 4: sl1, p to 1 st before “gap”, p2tog, P1, turn work.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 17 sts remain, having finished a row 4.

Next row: sl1, knit across.

Gusset:

Pick up and knit 18 sts along the right side of the heel flap. To do this, insert right needle under the first edge stitch (under both strands of the stitch), wrap the working yarn around the needle, and pull a stitch through (one stitch has now been picked up and knitted). Repeat this process until 18 stitches have been picked up.

Slip the following 31 sts onto one needle. These stitches constitute the instep of the sock. Work these 31 sts following the instep pattern (see below).

Pick up and knit 18 sts along the left side of the heel flap.

Onto this same needle, knit the next 8 stitches (from the remaining heel stitches). Slip the remaining 9 heel stitches onto Needle 1 (with the right side gusset).

You now have 27 sts on Needle 1, 31 sts on Needle 2, and 26 sts on Needle 3. The middle of the heel falls between Needle 3 and Needle 1. Consider this point to be the beginning of the round.

Round 1: On Needle 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, work Round 2 of instep pattern. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

Round 2: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, cont working instep pattern as established. On Needle 3, knit.

Rep Rounds 1 & 2 until there are 15 sts on Needle 1 and 14 sts on Needle 3 (60 sts total).

Instep Stitch Pattern (worked on Needle 2):

Round 1: k11, p9, k11

Round 2: k10, p11, k10
Round 3: k1, p1, k7, p13, k7, p1, k1
Round 4: k1, p2, k5, p4, k7, p4, k5, p2, k1
Round 5: k1, p2, k5, p3, k9, p3, k5, p2, k1
Round 6: k1, p2, k5, p2, k11, p2, k5, p2, k1
Round 7: k2, p1, k5, p1, k13, p1, k5, p1, k2
Round 8: k2, p7, k13, p7, k2
Round 9: k1, p9, k11, p9, k1
Round 10: k1, p10, k9, p10, k1
Round 11: k1, p2, k5, p4, k7, p4, k5, p2, k1
Round 12: k1, p1, k7, p3, k7, p3, k7, p1, k1
Round 13: k10, p2, k7, p2, k10
Round 14: k11, p1, k7, p1, k11

Foot:

After completing all the gusset decreases, cont working even, and cont repeating the instep pattern for as long as you want. I worked a total of 4 ½ repeats of the instep pattern, ending having finished a Round 7. I would suggest stopping the instep pattern either there or on a Round 14.

Work even until foot measures 2 ½ in shorter than desired foot length.

Toe:

The toe is 28 Rounds total.

Because there is a different number of sts for instep and sole of the foot, Round 1 of the toe contains 2 decreases as follows:

Round 1: On Needle 1, knit. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, knit.

This toe is then shaped so that it gradually narrows. To achieve this effect, you will work a “Decrease Round” more frequently as the toe progresses.

Perform a Decrease Round on Rounds 5, 9, 12, 15, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 27, and 28. On all other rounds (except Round 1 as described above), work even.

Decrease Round: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, k1, ssk, k to end.

At this point, there will be 4 sts on Needle 1, 7 sts on Needle 2, and 3 sts on Needle 3. Now, knit the next 3 sts onto Needle 3, leaving 7 sts on Needle 2 and 7 sts on Needle 3.

Graft the toe using the Kitchener stitch:

Cut the working yarn, leaving a 20 inch or longer tail. Thread this tail through a darning needle. Orient the sock so that the 2 needles are horizontal, the instep side of the sock is facing you, and the working yarn is coming off the right side of the needle in the back.

Step 1: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Step 2: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off the needle. Instert darning needle into the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all stitches have been worked and slipped off the needles.

Finishing:

At the top of the cuff, fold the first 5 rounds to the inside of the cuff along the picot edge. Sew the cast on edge to the inside of the cuff.

Weave in all ends.

If you have any questions – or if you find any mistakes – you can either leave a comment on this blog page or email me: atyler@centurytel.net or amy@stonesockfibers.com

This pattern is free, but it is still copyrighted. So, please feel free share a copy of this pattern or knit these socks, but please do not sell the pattern or sell socks made from this pattern. Thank you.

Why 60 is My Favorite Number

Today is my 60^th birthday. I have a feeling this year is going to be My Big Year. To help make this My Big Year, I’m giving myself a knitting challenge that will take all year. This is a project that I’ve had in mind for a while, that could only sensibly be carried out when I’m 60 years old. Let me explain.

I like numbers. Before I became an avid knitter, I think I preferred prime numbers. But as a knitter I have found delight in easily divisible numbers.

I also like designing and knitting socks. I long ago noticed that many of my socks were 60 stitches around. I came to love the number 60 because it’s divisible by so many integers: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 10, 12, 15, 20, 30, 60. That means stitch patterns with a repeat of any of these numbers would work well in a sock. For a few years now, I’ve thought about creating a series of socks using each of the divisors of 60. Now’s the time.

I would like to invite you to join me in this quest of 60 stitches, even if you are not 60 years old.

For each sock, the yarn thickness may vary depending on the stitch pattern I use. I hope to incorporate all kinds of stitches: knit-purl patterns, cables, slip stitches, mosaic stitches, stranded knitting, and lace.

To figure out which yarn to use for any particular sock design, I pulled out my copy of The Knitter’s Handy Book of Patterns, by Ann Budd. I turned to the section on socks. The first order of business was to measure the circumference of my foot. My foot happens to be 8 inches around. So, if I want to work with 60 stitches then I need to get a gauge of 7 ½ stitches per inch.

If your foot measures 7 ½ inches around, then you need a gauge of 8 stitches per inch.

If your foot measures 8 ½ inches around, then you need a gauge of 7 stitches per inch.

If your foot measures 9 inches around, then you need a gauge of 6.67 stitches per inch.

Then I decide on the stitch pattern I want to use. Then I swatch – in the round – until I find a yarn and needle size that will give me the proper gauge and a fabric worthy of socks.

Rules and Constraints

All of these socks will be knitted from cuff to toe.

I plan to knit most, but not all, on double pointed needles, my choice will depend on the stitch pattern I choose.

The main part of leg and foot of sock must be 60 stitches around.

There will be no shaping of leg, so the leg on all of these socks won’t be terribly long, likely all under 7 inches from cuff to beginning of heel.

The main part of leg must contain a stitch pattern using the chosen divisor; the foot must contain part or all of the same stitch pattern.

The cuff, heel, and toe can stray from the divisor rule.

I must use a yarn that is already in my stash; it does not need to be “sock yarn”.

I will not be presenting patterns in any particular order, but I hope to post one pattern per month. I will post all the patterns in this blog. Free. I want to do this project for project’s sake, not for profit. Of course, if you’d like to donate to My Big Year, I would happily accept.

My next blog post will contain my first pattern: 20 X 3 = 60. A 20-stitch pattern repeated 3 times. Are you with me?

When Pattern and Yarns and Needles Cooperate

I’ve knitted a scarf for my friend and hair stylist, Sharron May of Beyond Salon Holistic Lifestyles. It was an interesting knit for a few reasons.

 

First, I decided to knit up a pattern that I found on Ravelry: “Autumn Scarf” by Annie Lee-Baker (aka, JumperCables). I like the construction; it’s a charming asymmetrical triangular scarf knitted from one corner to a side edge. You can find this and other of her patterns on her website and her Ravelry shop.

Second, I knitted the pattern using two lace-weight yarns of distinctly different colorways. One yarn was a warm rusty muted colorway that I got years back from Chris Roosien of Briar Rose Fibers. It’s an alpaca yarn called “Angel Face”. The other yarn is a Suri alpaca yarn by Cherry Tree Hill in an unusual combination of colors called “Birches”: cream, pink-y taupe, dull yellow-green (think near winter color of goldfinches), and some blue-ish grey colors. When you put these two yarns side by side it is not obvious that they would combine so nicely – at least it wasn’t obvious to my color-dunce brain. I can’t explain my urge, but I’ve been wanting to knit them together for years. Yes, these yarns have been patiently waiting to be used in just the right project. I am very pleased with the result. For one thing, because these two yarns were hand dyed by two different fiber artists, the knitted fabric that results from holding the two yarns together shows no signs of color “pooling”.

Third, I had just the right needles for the job. I knitted several swatches, mostly to figure out what size needle I should use. I tried my Addi Turbo Lace needles first, but the largest size I’ve got is US size 2 ½ (3mm). I liked that the Lace needles weren’t too slippery and the points were nice and sharp, but the resulting fabric didn’t have the drape I was looking for. I tried a US size 3 (3.25mm) in regular Addi Turbos but the needle tip was not sharp enough. I finally settled on a set of needles by Indian Lake Artisans (a Michigan business). These needles are hexagonal, made of wood, and have nice sharp tips. I only had one size: US size 5 (3.75mm). What the heck! This was my first time using these needles and I give them a thumb’s up. I plan to get more of them.

So, the pattern, the yarns, and the needles came together to provide a wonderful knitting experience.

At a Glance Bags

I must share. Emily Johnston (my St. Joseph connection), her sister, and her niece are in business together. They make really really fabulous knitting project and tool bags. The bags feature some mesh, so you can see – at a glance – what is in the project bag. My favorite is the “zippered accessory” bag: it’s perfect for a pair of glasses, small scissors, a cable needle, some post-its, and some darning needles. And I love that it reminds me of a tent that you might camp in.

They use adorable fabrics too. Here’s my medium sized project bag. It’s just right for a scarf with yarn and needles.

They also make re-purposed shopping bags from hefty plastic feed bags. Too useful for words.

You can find these fabulous items on their etsy shop site:

https://www.etsy.com/shop/sarakaycow